We headed north stopping at Scranton, Portland and Saint John before arriving at our Airbnb in Annapolis Royal. The good news is we get 21-22 mpg without the camper! The bad news is it is so much harder to pack for a month without the camper!
View from our Airbnb on the Bay of Fundy!
Tuesday/Wednesday
The weather is good this week and we are riding the Harvest Moon Trail. The plan is to ride 3 sections out and back covering 45 miles of the trail. Today we rode from Annapolis Royal east toward Dickerson. The trail surface was really bad, with loose sand and gravel, potholes, and rocks. We rode 5 miles and turned back. Hopefully, the surface will be better tomorrow when we ride from Berwick. The trail was in slightly better shape between Berwick and Aylesford, but after 5.5 miles we decided to turn around.
We stopped to walk around Annapolis Royal on the way back; a beautiful, vibrant small town.
View from the Boardwalk.
We decided to ride around the Port Royal peninsula to our Airbnb. Well, the road turned into dirt and then impassable dirt so we turned around. Our GPS found a short cut, again on dirt but very passable! It was quite the adventure!
Thursday
Today we toured the Annapolis Royal Historic Gardens that showcase 400 years of Canadian gardening methods and materials. Pictured below is a reconstructed 1671 Acadian house!
Leaving the Gardens, we drove to Digby, a Bay of Fundy fishing hub, famous for the large scallops they ship around the world! It was definitely a working port, not like the other quaint towns we’ve seen in the area.
Our next stop was at the Bear River Winery. The setting reminded me of the Mosel wineries with grape vines planted on steep slopes down to the river. The grapes they grow are mostly ones native to the region…none of which we heard of before. Their white wines were very good and had unique flavors. When were the first grapes planted in this river valley…in 1611 by French settlers!
Our last stop was Fort Anne, one of the most fought over forts in Canada during the power struggle between the British and French in the 17th and 18th centuries. It was Canada’s first National Historic Site, established in 1917.
Friday
Today we drove to Grand Pré to ride the last section of the Harvest Moon Trail. The surface was in good shape from Grand Pré to Wolfville but then it started to degrade. At 5.5 miles, a huge patch of loose dirt took my front wheel out from under me! We turned around. For the week, we covered 16 out or the 45 we planned! The trail surface was not at all in sync with our riding psyches!
Next we toured the Grand Pré National Historical Site. It was a mind boggling event. The French who settled in the area in the late 1600s, formed a large successful farming community. During the British-French conflict to control Nova Scotia, they remained neutral. But between 1755 and 1762, the British deported thousands of them. They took families from their communities and put them on ships sailing away never to return. Then the soldiers burned all of the houses and other structures on their farms! The story is disgusting and just proves that mankind is not as caring and compassionate as we believe we are!
The Memorial Church was built in 1922 to remember the Acadians
who were deported from their homeland.
The story of the Acadians is described in the Henry Wadsworth Longfellow’s poem “Evangeline.” Gretchen and I never read a poem as long as this one!
Our final stop was the Grand Pré Winery, the oldest farm winery in Atlantic Canada. Their whites were great, very similar to the ones we tasted at Bear River Winery.
Saturday/Sunday
The farmers market is in Annapolis Royal on Saturday mornings. The town is abuzz with folks supporting the market, stores and restaurants. We did too! In the afternoon we explored the coastal peninsula south of Digby and planned to buy some world famous “Digby Scallops” to cook for supper. But the sea food market was closed at 3 pm even though their website indicated they were open until FIVE! We did manage to to pick up a bottle of Bear River Greater Yellowlegs Wine so the Nickels could taste the terroir of the region.
Today we took one last walk around Annapolis Royal and did the chores we needed to do to leave in the morning. The Airbnb we have stayed in this week is wonderful!
Monday, Tuesday/September 11
We drove to our Airbnb near Peggy’s Cove checking out Lunenburg and Run Runners Trail access points. David, Emily, Gary and Laurel all arrived at the house minutes after we did.
On Tuesday we headed to Cole Harbour just east of Dartmouth to ride the Salt Marsh Trail. The trail follows an old railroad line over a harbor, and it has spectacular views!
The Trail connects to the Atlantic View Trail and we rode on until we arrived at the ocean. It was a beautiful day for biking!
When we got back to our Airbnb, we had to have happy hour on the dock!
Wednesday
Did I mention Hurricane Lee is heading north and projected to make landfall in Nova Scotia? Gretchen took this beautiful shot showing how the weather is changing last evening at the end of happy hour.
Rain is predicted today so we drove to Lunenburg to explore the quaint seaside town. It did not disappoint. It had an active waterfront, colorful buildings, a bustling downtown and great seafood!
Next we drove to Halifax. The group indulged my need to see the water from the Halifax boardwalk! You see, 35 years ago, I stood on the dock, and it was so foggy, I could not see the water! It was a bit foggy today but I could see the water!
This evening we decided to leave Nova Scotia and head west! The winds from the hurricane on Saturday were predicted to be 65-75 mph. Our host was relieved. She said they were coming tomorrow to remove all the furniture from the dock and patio and make sure the house was secure. She said if we stayed, we would probably be days without power. She gave us a refund for the days we had left on our rental!
Thursday/Friday
We drove from Halifax to Orono (ME) today. All of the Nickels stayed at the same hotel and we had our last dinner together at a great seafood restaurant! In the morning, the Helms headed home and we traveled to Gary and Laurel’s house in Vermont. Emily and David, great being with you for a few days! 😎 On the way to Newport, we stopped and chatted with a group of through hikers at an AT parking area and then at Dixville Notch…the first place that votes in U.S. Presidential Elections. The weather is definitely better here in Vermont!
Saturday
After a slow start, we did go for a walk on the Land Trust trails and then went and got groceries. We all had a relaxing day until Gretchen and I were introduced to Acrostics! 😎
Sunday
It is a biking day! We went to Johnson today and rode west on the Lamoille Valley Trail. Last year we rode east. This year the 93 mile trail was completed across Vermont! BUT….a big flood occurred the week before the grand opening and caused major damage along the trail. The east and west sections have reopened but the center section will not be opened for a while because a bridge was wiped out and needs to be replaced! It was a very beautiful day and ride!
Monday/Tuesday
Monday between showers, we walked around downtown Newport. We enjoyed the waterfront, and checked out some of the historic exhibits in the Library and City Hall. We ate lunch at the Natural Market and Cafe. Ice cream was next on the agenda before we went to find the grocery in Derby where the bakery sells their goods. Their apple pie is great!
Tuesday we took a ride to Lake Willoughby, a beautiful glacier formed lake!
Wednesday
Today, it was time to say goodbye to Gary and Laurel. We had a wonderful time with you two; a benefit derived from the Hurricane Lee change of plans. We thank you for you hospitality and friendship! We’re on our way to Bethel, Maine.
Thursday
We explored the Bethel area. First, we found the Greenwood Bean Roaster’s self serve trailer near Mount Abrams to buy a bag of coffee.
We walked around Bethel and then we checked out some water falls in Grafton Notch State Park.
Screw Auger Falls
Friday
We drove to Portland to visit the Portland Museum of Art. It really was spectacular with galleries of classical, modern, native and nautical art, and sculptures. It is housed in large modern building that is attached to the McLellan-Sweat Mansion. One cool thing is entrance is free to anyone under 21 years old and to everyone on Free Fridays from 4-8 p.m.
Finally, we took a walk around the downtown and the waterfront before heading back to Bethel.
Saturday/Sunday
First we found the Bingham House where Gwen and Sara stayed several times when my sister was taking finance seminars in Bethel; so I could send her a photo.
We then went to the River Fest, one of the summer weekend activities at the Sunday River Ski Resort. There was blue grass music, a women’s axe competition and the Maine Beer Box with 78 taps! Gary and David would have thought they died and went to heaven!
Axe throwing, wood chopping and log rolling events
Today we tried to find the arts center in Bethel but we failed again! Then we walked the Bethel Pathway. It was well done with a playground, skateboard park, covered bridge and a beautiful view from the bridge over the river that flows through Bethel.
View from bridge over the Androscoggin River
Monday
Franconia Notch was our destination today to ride the bike path. We loved the ride! It was hilly traversing a canopied forest with beautiful scenery…lakes, waterfalls, and mountain landscapes! We logged 19 miles. Gretchen rode the whole way but honestly, I could not have ridden the hills on my recumbent with out the aid of my RideKick!
Tuesday
We decided to ride the cog train up Mt Washington today. We lucked out, it was a clear, sunny day! One week ago, they had 12 inches of snow in 2 hours at the top! We loved the trip! The technology is impressive and it was developed 154 years ago! Oh, an interesting fact. The passenger car is not attached to the engine! Going up the engine pushes it and coming down it rests against the engine. Why? Well, if something goes wrong, both engine and passenger car can stop separately.
The Wedding
Ashley and Jon planned a wonderful wedding at the Sunday River Ski resort. The trees were beginning to change color and the weather cooperated just long enough!
Ashley's friend presided at the wedding. Jon and Ashley wrote their own vows and they brought tears to my eyes! Well done!!
Stephanie served as a bridesmaid and Matt as best best man with Natalie, Luke and Caleb spreading flowers for the brides's entrance.
The night before the wedding, a welcoming dinner was held. It was so good to see Jim, Barb, Susie, and Frank. It has been years since we spent time with them. It was quickly apparent that Caleb has become quite mobile, keeping Emily and Matt on their toes!
Lisa, Luca and Amy were the only cousins to make the trip to Maine! They earn a badge! 🏅🏅
The wedding reception was a great event with a happy hour to mingle, great dinner and a rousing DJ to support the dancing! Some of the older folks had to leave when he cranked up the music!
Great seeing you, Liz and Jeff. We don't see you as often as Jenny, Pricilla and Phil. Phil and Pricilla, we appreciate your hospitality providing the opportunities for all of us to mingle during the entire time we were in Bethel! Also, thanks for dinner at the Bethel Inn on Wednesday. And Jenny, thanks for dinner on Saturday!
Sunday
We began our trek home today. However, we stopped in Federick so we could spend some time with Sally. It is always great to see you Sally! Gretchen and I are really impressed with the positive attitude you have given all the challenges you are facing with Gwen's care. Hats off to you! We ate dinner at the Silver Diner. Their motto is "We buy fresh and local, You eat well" and we did! It was the biggest and best Diner we have ever visited!
